Tru Oil on filler
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Tru Oil on filler
I've been away from building for over twelve years.
My apologies of this topic has been beaten to death.
I want to refinish mu first guitar from the early 80's
I am looking at Tru Oil for the top coat.
I like the dark contrasting grain of dark grain filler.
If I use dark pore filler on mahogany, would I shellac the filler then Tru Oil or would Tru Oil be its own sealer?
Water based or oil based grain filler under Tru Oil?
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks,
Mike
My apologies of this topic has been beaten to death.
I want to refinish mu first guitar from the early 80's
I am looking at Tru Oil for the top coat.
I like the dark contrasting grain of dark grain filler.
If I use dark pore filler on mahogany, would I shellac the filler then Tru Oil or would Tru Oil be its own sealer?
Water based or oil based grain filler under Tru Oil?
Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks,
Mike
Re: Tru Oil on filler
I use Tru Oil and 400 grit sandpaper used together to pore fill mahogany. No compatibility problems that way. If you want to use dark filler then you could use dark coloured sawdust from say rosewood along with the Tru Oil
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Re: Tru Oil on filler
Thank you Bob.
I was concerned that it would make the wood look dirty with granules sitting on, and in, the top coat.
Does that still allow the finish to give some depth?
I was concerned that it would make the wood look dirty with granules sitting on, and in, the top coat.
Does that still allow the finish to give some depth?
Re: Tru Oil on filler
Yes in my limited experience it does. I have also grain filled with clear epoxy with tru oil on top and that works well. Perhaps you could tint the epoxy. Bob
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Re: Tru Oil on filler
I have only used oil based grain filler as all my builds were over ten year ago.
I ordered water based grain filler colored for rosewood/walnut, so as to give the mahogany some contrasting grain filler.
There are so many opinions and options that it becomes a challenge just to choose which way I will fill and finish.
Using Zpoxy and Tru Oil as a topcoat gave me differing opinions. Many suggested I use shellac as a mid coat after the Zpoxy.
Others said the Tru Oil wouldn't adhere properly to Zpoxy.
"Grain fill first then seal." "Seal first then grain fill."
The consensus seems to be "test it first" but such a test requires a long wait. I don't want to wait months testing when numerous builders have experience with the materials. Mahogany wings on a birdseye maple center core. Pretty basic. Not too exotic. I only used nitro lacquer before.
I have used Tru Oil once on birch and that came out great, but there was no grain fill. I kept the open grain.
At the moment, I plan on grain filling the raw wood, and then sealing and continuing with Tru Oil. Maybe using shellac after the grain fill.
If that doesn't work, I will remove it all and use wipe-on satin polyurethane.
I ordered water based grain filler colored for rosewood/walnut, so as to give the mahogany some contrasting grain filler.
There are so many opinions and options that it becomes a challenge just to choose which way I will fill and finish.
Using Zpoxy and Tru Oil as a topcoat gave me differing opinions. Many suggested I use shellac as a mid coat after the Zpoxy.
Others said the Tru Oil wouldn't adhere properly to Zpoxy.
"Grain fill first then seal." "Seal first then grain fill."
The consensus seems to be "test it first" but such a test requires a long wait. I don't want to wait months testing when numerous builders have experience with the materials. Mahogany wings on a birdseye maple center core. Pretty basic. Not too exotic. I only used nitro lacquer before.
I have used Tru Oil once on birch and that came out great, but there was no grain fill. I kept the open grain.
At the moment, I plan on grain filling the raw wood, and then sealing and continuing with Tru Oil. Maybe using shellac after the grain fill.
If that doesn't work, I will remove it all and use wipe-on satin polyurethane.
- Barry Daniels
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Re: Tru Oil on filler
I like to put a couple of seal coats (thinned lacquer) down before filling. This will help prevent the filler from staining any light colored wood or purfling that is adjacent. Your maple core would definitely benefit from this approach.
My favorite filler is the old fashioned, oil-based silex filler, but I also like Aquacoat.
My favorite filler is the old fashioned, oil-based silex filler, but I also like Aquacoat.
MIMF Staff
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Re: Tru Oil on filler
"Mahogany wings on a birdseye maple center core."
This is a solid body, then?
This is a solid body, then?
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Re: Tru Oil on filler
I don't have spray equipment and I'm in an apartment, so options are less than with a garage/shop.
It is a solid body I made after a Rickenbacker 320. 3 piece birdseye neck with mahogany wings/ears with white front binding.
I'm plugging the rear access route so the pots are front mounted off the pickguard.
Reparing where the truss rob broke through on the rear of the neck when I over-tightened a clamp, gluing down the fingerboard.
Stripping off the black lacquer, adding binding to both sides and keeping the finish clear.
Staining the birdseye to bring out the figure. I just received some LMI water-based grain filler.
The maple is from 1981 when pieces of figured birdsyey was just a few dollars for 36" long pieces.
It is super figured. Body binding will be either white plastic or maple.
Depending on how the Tru Oil will adhere to the binding material.
I'm trying to gather loads of information and advice as I don't want to redo anything.
Most of the work will be by hand tools. Many of the power/bench tool were sold ages ago.
It's taken me so long to get back into any guitar work. What comes of this refinish/repair will be the way it stays.
No going back.
Thank you all for the help.
It is a solid body I made after a Rickenbacker 320. 3 piece birdseye neck with mahogany wings/ears with white front binding.
I'm plugging the rear access route so the pots are front mounted off the pickguard.
Reparing where the truss rob broke through on the rear of the neck when I over-tightened a clamp, gluing down the fingerboard.
Stripping off the black lacquer, adding binding to both sides and keeping the finish clear.
Staining the birdseye to bring out the figure. I just received some LMI water-based grain filler.
The maple is from 1981 when pieces of figured birdsyey was just a few dollars for 36" long pieces.
It is super figured. Body binding will be either white plastic or maple.
Depending on how the Tru Oil will adhere to the binding material.
I'm trying to gather loads of information and advice as I don't want to redo anything.
Most of the work will be by hand tools. Many of the power/bench tool were sold ages ago.
It's taken me so long to get back into any guitar work. What comes of this refinish/repair will be the way it stays.
No going back.
Thank you all for the help.
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- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:11 pm
Re: Tru Oil on filler
One of the main reasons I don't use Tru-oil much is that it probably adds mass and damping, which would hurt the sound on an acoustic. That's not an issue with a solid body. It's not a hard finish, but it's very easy to renew, so it's a good choice for that.
I do think it would be a help if people would specify what they're using it on in these threads. It does make a difference in the advice you'll get.
I do think it would be a help if people would specify what they're using it on in these threads. It does make a difference in the advice you'll get.
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- Posts: 57
- Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2022 1:24 am
- Location: Southern Ca
Re: Tru Oil on filler
Thank you for that advice.
It is a solid body with a birdseye neck-thru with mahogany ears/wings.
It has an old lacquer finish from Standard Brands Paints. An old Los Angeles brand paint company.
Have you used Crystalac? I've seen some nice results with that. I do like their matte finish.
I am not able to make test pieces as I no longer have any mahogany to test on.
The only wood I have left to use is poplar, cherry and maple. I may use a poplar piece to plug the control cavity.
It is a solid body with a birdseye neck-thru with mahogany ears/wings.
It has an old lacquer finish from Standard Brands Paints. An old Los Angeles brand paint company.
Have you used Crystalac? I've seen some nice results with that. I do like their matte finish.
I am not able to make test pieces as I no longer have any mahogany to test on.
The only wood I have left to use is poplar, cherry and maple. I may use a poplar piece to plug the control cavity.
Re: Tru Oil on filler
I haven't found any significant dampening with tru oil on an acoustic top but I am only on number 6! I do seal with a couple of coats of shellac first and I prefer a satin finish so am not applying loads of coats. As you say it is very easy to maintain with no witness marks. I think it is a good option for those like me who do not have the facility to spray.Alan Carruth wrote: ↑Sun Feb 27, 2022 4:00 pm One of the main reasons I don't use Tru-oil much is that it probably adds mass and damping, which would hurt the sound on an acoustic. That's not an issue with a solid body. It's not a hard finish, but it's very easy to renew, so it's a good choice for that.
I do think it would be a help if people would specify what they're using it on in these threads. It does make a difference in the advice you'll get.