Offset Veneer Saw

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Offset Veneer Saw

Postby Gilbert Fredrickson » Mon Mar 11, 2019 11:01 pm

How well do these saws cut .08" purfling strips from a veneer laminate? I've been using a razor knife or a skew chisel and a metal straight edge. It seems a thin sharp saw with no set would be faster. I also use .026" solid wood veneers.
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Re: Offset Veneer Saw

Postby Chuck Tweedy » Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:22 am

hey Gilbert. I've tried using a set-less offset veneer saw like you describe to cut purfling strips from veneer and paper laminate material.
it works but ... its a bit fiddly
i prefer a sharp X-acto knife and good solid down force on the straight edge.
the knife can leave a raised burr on the laminate material, if it is too pronounced i just run the strips through a scraper sizing tool and then they will stack flat together.
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Re: Offset Veneer Saw

Postby Steve Sawyer » Thu Mar 14, 2019 1:37 pm

A few years ago I attended a veneering workshop where we learned to make a cutter. Basically a block of wood, about 6x3x1, with a recess cut into the face at one edge, at the long center, about 1.75"x 1", and a bit more than 1/8" deep. A 1/8" thick piece of aluminum or brass is cut to fit into the recess and secured with two flat-head screws at the ends. Secure a double-edge razor blade under this metal insert bwtwwen the screws, and file the insert flush with the face. Extend the razor blade at a steep angle below the edge of this block, just enough to cut through the veneer, and push this assembly across the veneer guided by a straight edge. I added threaded inserts and machine screws for the original wood screws.

Note that the blade is extended FAR more in the pics below than I would normally do, to make the blade visible. In actual use on typical 1/42" veneer, the blade is almost invisible.

These work great.

Veneer Slicer 1.JPG


Veneer Slicer 2.JPG
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Re: Offset Veneer Saw

Postby Bob Francis » Thu Mar 14, 2019 2:33 pm

I use a veneer saw on boxes that I make and they can be a little frustrating. The saws work well (for me) on straight cuts. They can do well on curves but in my case need the support of a taller straight side. I am sure that just as with most other hand tools if I used it more it would become easier.

I really like Steve's slicer and plan to make one. It looks similar to a mat board cutter which is pretty foolproof.
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Re: Offset Veneer Saw

Postby Steve Sawyer » Fri Mar 15, 2019 9:22 pm

I should mention that for tough veneers that are prone to splitting, or delicate, highly-figured veneers, it's a good idea to wax the bottom of the cutter to minimize friction against the veneer. Exceptionally thick or tough veneers (like birch) might take multiple passes to cut completely through.

And yeah, Bob - when I first saw this I went home and tried to use my mat cutter, but the blade on that is much too high an angle to work on veneer. You might get through one cut with a brand-new blade, but after that it just tears the veneer.

It is really pretty foolproof, though I made a clamping thingumbob out of some scrap to use as the straightedge. It's really frustrating to get halfway through the cut and have my straightedge shift on me!
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