MIMF

I am sick about this. My "baby" fell off the guitar stand. I've seen guitars fall before without causing this kind of damage. Don't understand why?

How would you guys repair this?

Glue and clamp? Add dowels? What kind of glue?

Thanks in advance for whatever help you can give. Tempted to bring it to a pro, but I think this is something that I can handle.

If this is your baby and you are asking these type of questions, are you sure you want to experiment on her? It is a fairly basic repair using wood glue and clamps so it is not difficult, but you only get one chance to do it right.

And, if you don't get it right, it will be a lot harder for the next guy to get it right.

I suppose it's like a surgeon who shouldn't operate on a family member <g>

I've restored several guitars and violins, built 24 violins, and one classical guitar.

Barry, you may have answered my question. Use Titebond glue. Rotate the broken head back into position and clamp. Is that the proper repair?

But still, even though I have some experience --- this is my "baby".

If it fits back together cleanly, I would use hot hide glue. The hot hide glue doesn't leave you with a mess if you have to do it again. I've never had one that I fixed with HHG fail that I know of.

Thanks for the quick replies.

I emailed a pro, who has done work for me in the past. He just quoted from the pictures. Although I "think" I can successfully repair it, I am sure he can. Got a decision to make.

Thanks again, guys.

How many strings on this instrument? What's the make? Gluing the headstock back won't make it any stronger than it was and it clearly wasn't quite strong enough. I'd splice in some splines of a stronger wood and veneer the front and back faces of the headstock. The fact that it's black lacquered makes it easy to cover your tracks.

It is a Guild 12 String. Bought it used 35 years ago. Have kept it at concert pitch for all these years. I read somewhere that Guilds were built to take it, as opposed to some recommending lowering the tuning by a whole note to reduce tension.

Been thinking on this very traumatic experience all afternoon. I'm leaning towards having the pro do it. Why take a chance on my inexperience in this type repair.

As many times over the years, you guys on this forum have come to my rescue. Thanks.

The guilds are strong enough to be kept at concert pitch, preferably with light gauge (High E = .010) strings. The break was "enabled" by the 12 sealed tuning machines, which kept going after the guitar stopped. If you're going to have the deluxe version of the repair, with a back strap and touch-up, it would be a good time to switch those machines out to something lighter, which would be almost anything.

If you're budget minded, Mark Swanson has recommended the Waverly like machines from Guitar Fetish. Or you could get a couple of sets of Waverlys. There are also versions from Gotoh and Grover. Any will take some of the neck dive out of your guitar.

I am not saying that lighter tuning machines would have kept this break from happening or would keep it from happening again.

I've found it hard to make predictions, especially about the future.

I have decided to have a professional do the repair.

Not sure on the method he plans on using. What is a "back strap". Should I suggest that instead of or in addition to just gluing the pieces together?

Will also look into the tuning machines. In a couple of days. Just got home from hospital. Had double hernia surgery, but not as concerned with that as I am my "baby".

A backstrap is a thin lamination or series of laminations that cover the back of the headstock and down to a point at the transition onto back of the neck.
Using fiberglass cloth and epoxy to wrap the area is now probably the most common and cost effective repair on these breaks.

I knew a guy years ago who had one of these from this era, and it was a nice guitar. Said he got to play through 3 in a small shop and choose. Glad you're having the repair done right.

David King wrote:Using fiberglass cloth and epoxy to wrap the area is now probably the most common and cost effective repair on these breaks.

Really? Wouldn't that leave a big lump or ridge? This break is clean and fairly long so it should glue up fine and be quite strong. I am not even sure that I would do a backstrap on a break like this.

Probably it will glue well enough to last for many years if the parts fit together well. I second the hot hide glue if the parts fit very well, otherwise it may be better to do a back strap lamination.

Barry Daniels wrote:

David King wrote:Using fiberglass cloth and epoxy to wrap the area is now probably the most common and cost effective repair on these breaks.

Really? Wouldn't that leave a big lump or ridge? This break is clean and fairly long so it should glue up fine and be quite strong. I am not even sure that I would do a backstrap on a break like this.

Barry it shouldn't as long as the stronger weave "S-glass" is used in moderation. Figure about .012" thickness for two layers of 4 oz cloth and .020" for 2 layers of 8.5oz cloth. You would feather this into the neck shaft with a little epoxy paste or Bondo so it should be barely perceptible.

I'd make a clamping jig and use slow set epoxy to fill in gaps or titebond if it is a clean break.

I brought it to the Pro. He said two to three weeks. He said that he doesn't just use C-clamps. He must have a clamping jig of some sort. He will probably use hide glue. He is also going to touch up or re lacquer the head.

I'll post pictures when I get it back. Meanwhile, I got my other "baby" out of the case, and will be playing that the next several weeks. A Guild 6 string. Purchased new about the same time. 36 years ago. Strong rich deep sound.

Thanks again for all the input

Good move, John.

I'll be curious to see a close up after the repair. Was that a one piece neck / headstock? No scarf joint?

Glenn Howland wrote:Was that a one piece neck / headstock? No scarf joint?

I don't know. Edges are stained near black. I will look when the guitar is returned.