Ugly Gaps

[Mike Sayre]

I have an unsightly gap I would like to remedy. I have some Gloss Behlen's lacquer. Of course, the neck is not gloss, but I though about trying to hide the gap(s) with the lacquer. The one between the fingerboard and the top are the ugliest. What about a piece of paper or .005 brass to guide the lacquer into the gap(s)?

[Peter Wilcox]

In my own limited experience, besides the obvious problem of protecting the surrounding finish, lacquer shrinks so much it would take many, many applications to fill the gaps. I'd think epoxy wold be a better choice.

[Bob Gramann]

If you have to do it, if you can't make it fit right without the gaps, use a bead of regular Elmers white glue followed by a smoothing finger or a wet rag. You'll be able to clean up with water if you don't like what you did, and it won't harm the finish or your ability to take it apart later. But, first choice is always to make it fit right.

If that gap under the fingerboard is more than just the edge, in other words, if any part of the fingerboard is suspended, some of the sound is getting away, especially when fretting notes over the suspension. If that's the case, you really do want to remove the neck and improve the fit.

[Barry Daniels]

Putting lacquer or glue into the gap will not really hide it. I would leave well enough alone.

[Michael Lewis]

Yeah, it is a matter of preventing things like this rather than trying to cover them. I have had to take more than a few parts apart and make things right. It's a distasteful process but it is the path that leads to a good result.

[Mike Sayre]

Yeah, you guys are right......it returned from a reset like this. I've not done one before, but it look like I will have to in order to make it right. Not sure how to address the calamity between the fingerboard and the top just yet.

[Randy Roberts]

If someone else did the reset, seems to me they should correct the problem.
Just my 0.02.

[Clay Schaeffer]

Rather than filling with lacquer you might consider using high clarity hot hide glue. Place masking tape along the sides of the fingerboard, work as much glue into the gap as possible, then after it jells slightly, do some preliminary clean up. Before it sets hard remove the tape and wipe off any excess. It can sometimes look like a guitar that has been lacquered with the neck attached. If you don't like the results it's not too much of a pain to undo it.
It won't be as nice as a perfectly done reset but it may look better than the results from a person's- first- reset. Is the neck a dovetail or bolt on? Is it your guitar or a clients?

[Mike Sayre]

Martin D28, not done by me. My guitar, but I'd like to move it along, I have others I play more.

[Ryan Mazzocco]

If someone else did the reset, seems to me they should correct the problem.
Just my 0.02.

not sure I would trust him to fix it if you didn't like what he did the first time. unless by "correct" you mean pay to have it fixed for you... but that might be hard to get.

[Clay Schaeffer]

If you can find a good furniture touch up tech, he could do some burn ins with lacquer sticks that would make the gaps inconspicuous. If the reset is structurally sound that might be a good option. Mohawk does offer some low temperature finish fill sticks and if you wish to try it yourself these might be something to check into.

[Michael Lewis]

Gentlemen, whatever you do to cover up a gap it will still be a gap, just filled. It will not look right until it is right.

The process to get rid of the gap is to reset the neck. The tenon of the dovetail needs a small amount taken off so the fingerboard sits directly on the top.

One very important question: is the fingerboard even on both sides? That is, does it have the same 'gap' on the treble side as on the bass side?

[Clay Schaeffer]

"by Michael Lewis » Sat Feb 06, 2016 3:27 am

Yeah, it is a matter of preventing things like this rather than trying to cover them. I have had to take more than a few parts apart and make things right. It's a distasteful process but it is the path that leads to a good result."



......but not always......

[Michael Lewis]

Here is another point to consider: the fingerboard to top joint is a structural element, and leaving a gap, or filling it with glue or some other filler, will probably not give the necessary strength in that joint. Just take it apart and fit it properly.

[Clay Schaeffer]

" Just take it apart and fit it properly."

That is certainly the best advice if you have the skill to do it. Other advice often given here is to do a couple of resets on "junk" instruments before attempting it on a high quality guitar. It helps you recognize the pitfalls you may need to overcome.