(not) burning maple

[Robert Smallwood]

Using a laminate trimmer with a template & bearing flush trim bit to shape a tele headstock I ended up with some dark burns on the end (grain) bit...the point of the toe..
They sanded out OK but I should've avoided the problem.

Any advice re laminate trimmers for this?
Should I use a (bigger) slower router?

Wet the wood?

anything?

Thanks,
Rob.

[Greg Robinson]

Hi Robert.
Was the burning from the cutter or the bearing (or both)?
How mush material are you taking off each pass?
When routing you need to keep the cutter moving to avoid burning, but you don't want to move so fast that you cause tearout. You can up your speed and minimize tearout by taking repeated shallow cuts.
You may need to slow your cutter speed too, do you have a variable speed router? Also, if the bearing is wearing out or not properly lubricated, or the cutter is not sharp, this can cause burning.
One last tip, you might try putting tape on the sides where the bearing will follow, this can help prevent the wood itself from being burnt.

[Steve Senseney]

Also make sure your cutter is clean with no sap on it from cutting pine, or burned material from the last time it got hot.

[David King]

Maple is notorious for burning as it has sugars that jump to carbon state readily. I use the cutter lube to clean and wax before and after use. A dull cutter will always burn regardless. Keep the stock moving as steadily (speedily) as seems reasonable. Never linger on a corner. Timid wood workers always have this happen. I used to be timid.