I've used a sure-form to rough carve my necks, it's very aggressive but makes quick work of it. Follow that with rasps or course files then finally sandpaper. When you are carving curly, or flame maple you are dealing with a part of the tree that had wood that was essentially changing grain direction multiple times. It's what gives the wood the beautiful look, but it makes any kind of shaping a chore as there is no way to run the tooling constantly with the grain to achieve the smoothest finish. Moving a rasp or file across the grain rather than with it can lead to less tearout, but use a light touch. If you could imagine the neck face down, I would hold a two handed sure-form rasp at a 45 degree angle and feel out if moving up or down the neck will work better. From there it's basic shaping and sanding protocol. Move from course to fine, leaving enough wood that you can take it down to final size and guarantee removing any gouges in the wood.